Tomato Problems
After having lost an entire tomato harvest last summer, this summer I decided to have three different experiments. The (climbing) tomatoes that I have planted this year (in between hiking groups, I admit, rather hurriedly) are divided in three groups:
I: Plants from shop A, in a bed that used that had cabbages, calendula, capuchina (it dried out shortly after planting the tomatoes around it) and leeks on it during the winter, planted with compost mixed in the earth, drip watered (first too much in my opinion - twice 15 mins per day, now 30 mins every 2 days - programmer offers limited options), straw mulch, accompanied by basil, calendula, 1 pepper (that stays small here) and lettuce. Heaviest insulation (july 10am till 3pm).
II: Plants from shop B, heavily "injected" it seems (monstruously big already when bought!), in a bed that was dug new in winter, planted up with broad beans for spring harvesting and prepped with compost after that. Hand watered first daily, then every 4 days (when I came back from my hiking groups) with a eco fertilizer mixed in the water, now (bearing biggish fruit/tomatoes already) every 2 days (10 litres per 6 plants per watering - approx 5 litres a week per plant). Companion plants: basil, maiz, onion, and bellpeppers. Partly shade, midday partly shade cloth, partly full sun.
III: Same conditions as group II, only plants were much smaller from yet a different shop. First also lots of sun, now shade cloth most of day.
I have used Nettle spray and Karanja spray on all groups but only once or twice and I think maybe not efficiently (not enough under the leaves).
Group I did real well first off, gave the first 2-3 tomatoes as well, Plants have gotten to approx 70-100cm, leaves are going yellow, fruit is showing little bug holes now. Which bug? Too hot? Too little water? Too little organic matter in soil? Too little fertilizer?
Group II grew wild, right from the start, with lots of water (however, they started to show spots on the leaves and they went limp-ish, later with less water (but fertilizer) --> many dark green leaves, good sized fruits but now starting to show black spots. After some recommendations on facebook and others in our Diploma Skype group (Brix measurement of soil and use urine), I found this video through Google and then this website which I think is exactly what is happening (Necrosis Apical) (sorry, these links are in Spanish!).
This confirms what another friend had been commenting just a few days ago: the tomatoes might lack calcium.
Group III is coming on later and not showing any defects currently, they were suffering too much water and sun at the start I think.
Why the problems?
Too frequent watering at start (no strong roots were formed), maybe not enough organic matter in soil right now (soil has a dry-ish and hard-ish appearance, although broad beans (nitrogen fixers) were there (and roots were left in soil when harvested), compost was incorporated in the soil before planting these tomatoes, a organic fertilizer was used in the growing phase (3-4 weeks) and straw is abundantly used as mulch.
How to remedy now?
The website says there is no late remedy. The cell walls have been made already and there is no going back. :-(
Other recommendations have included using diluted urine to restore the balance in the soil and get rid of plagues (by Stella, of Integral Permaculture). I saw on this website that there is calcium in urine :-) (sorry, in Spanish again!)
Lessons learned for next year:
Add more organic matter to soil previous to planting and aerate soil more (worms or fork).
Less water at start.
Check salinity and when needed up water (to clear salt, and then some to give enough to plants when starting to form fruits?).
Do not over fertilize (over fertilizing makes for the plant to grow like mad which makes calcium absorption harder - there is too much plant to feed, apart from this I think we have a lot of nitrates in the ground anyway as we live very near an industrial vegetable area - black area on our island - bio-indicator plants like Common Chicory and Galium Aparine are very abundant).
Start early with the pruning so there are not so many leaves, although I have not been a huge fan of pruning up till now.
I think shade is a good solution for July and August here on the island and I will probably use it again, there is plenty of sun still and the leaves transpire heavily so that is where water with the calcium goes rather than to the fruit.
Choose smaller varieties.
Better care is needed the first weeks (I had to leave them somewhat untended for the first 3 weeks, due to work and a death in my family).
